1) Q: What are the main differences between a Golden Retriever & a Labrador Retriever?

A: The Golden and the Labrador are both great members of the retriever family and share many similar qualities. For instance, they both make great hunting companions, guide dogs, therapy dogs, and of course excellent family pets as they love to be around people and are very smart, easily trained, and generally good with children. Goldens and Labs don't make the best guard dogs or police dogs because most people do not fear them, and they are not naturally aggressive.

While these two breeds are similar in the ways mentioned above, they are also very different in other ways:

Physically, Goldens have long hair that comes in various shades of Gold, ranging from very light to a dark reddish color. Labs, on the other hand, have shorter hair that comes in various shade of yellow ranging from almost white to a dark reddish color, light or dark chocolate, and black.

Personality wise, Labs take a little longer to mature and grow out of their puppy stage than Goldens do. They are also typically more active and a bit more vocal than a Golden. As a general rule, I would recommend a Lab for a moderate to active household, and a Golden for a moderate to low activity household, though it is important to remember that each dog is different--some are more or less active than others. A lot depends on the personality and temperament of the parents, but how well they are raised, trained, and socialized by the breeder as well as their new family also plays a big role.

The best way to make a decision, if you are struggling between these two breeds, is to visit a few breeders and meet their dogs. Different breeders will have dogs from different lines, so the type and personality traits of one breeder's Goldens or Labs may differ from those of another breeder's, so it's a good idea to talk to and visit a few different breeders before making your decision. I also recommend doing some reading on these breeds by visiting the American Kennel Club's website at www.AKC.org.

 

2) Q: Do you breed "English" or "American" style Labs?

A: Our Labs are beautiful, healthy, AKC registered dogs bred to meet this strict requirements of the Labrador Retriever Breed Standard in both conformation and temperament as set for by the Labrador Retriever Club of America. Our dogs generally mature to around 55 - 65 lbs for females and around 65 - 75 lbs for males (correct Labrador size according to the AKC). Bred for beauty and brains, our dogs are both smart & beautiful.

I don't personally care for the terms "English" or "American" when used to describe Labradors, because it divides the breed into two separate categories. The Labrador Retriever, as a purebred dog, was never intended to come in either an "English" or "American" build, or an "English" or "American" temperament. The Labrador Retriever has one written standard to which it should be held. That standard describes both its physical attributes as well as its personality and various breed traits, such as making good family pets as well as active hunting companions, etc.

As breeders of quality AKC Labrador Retrievers, we believe in breeding dogs that meet the breed standard set forth by the Labrador Retriever Club of America, therefore, we breed dogs to have correct physical build in both size & weight, and correct Labrador temperament with the natural ability and drive to retrieve and the strong desire to please. We try to stay active in AKC conformation shows, hunt tests, and obedience trails as time and money allows, making our dogs extremely versatile and well-rounded, as the breed was originally intended.

 

3) Q: What color Labrador Retrievers do you breed?

A: We breed ALL three colors of purebred Labrador Retrievers: Black, Yellow, and Chocolate.

1. Yellow--ranges from a very light shade of yellow (almost white in appearance) to very dark shade of yellow (almost reddish in appearance).

2. Black--black is black with no shade variation--although a very minimal tint may sometimes be recognizable due to fading from the sun etc.

3. Chocolate--chocolates come in shades of light to dark ( I like to refer to them as milk chocolate or dark chocolate). Some chocolates will appear washed out or faded at times due to natural sunlight--esspecially during the summer.

Fact: There are NO true "white," "silver," "charcoal," or any other recognized purebred colors of Labrador Retrievers. You will not see any colors other than black, yellow, or chocolate being bred by any reputable breeder or at any AKC show or other breed competition. Please see the AKC's Labrador Retriever Breed Standard for acceptable colors of Labs, as well as the National Labrador Retriever's Club website to see their stances on these so-called "colors." Do not be fooled by breeders who tell you their silvers are 100% purebred .

Click here for photo examples of the different colors & various shades of Labs.

 

4) Q: Is a Labrador's coat color relevant to the dog's personality or temperament?

A: This is a common myth, but the answer is no. A Lab's temperament depends on the bloodlines of the dog and has nothing to do with it's coat color. In other words, chocolate Labs are no different in temperament than a yellow Lab or a black Lab, and visa versa. You may have a meet a few Labs of a certain color that were unusually hyper or poorly trained, but don't let this bad representation fool you. The color of a Lab has absolutely nothing to do with temperament, trainability, personality, health, or hyperactivity. The difference in temperament lies within the lines of the dog. It's the breeder's job to select good quality breeding dogs. Color is irrelevant.

 

5) Q: What are the main differences between males and females?

A: Simply put as a general rule; females want to be the center of attention, and males make you the center of attention.

Girls are sweet, smaller, and more submissive. Boys are like big teddy bears: affectionate and charming with fuller coats. They are both smart, and take the same amount of time to train. One is not a better hunting dog, therapy dog, or family pet, and one is not better with children than the other.

Contrary to popular belief, males are not harder to train, not more energetic than females, and will not mark in your house, hump your leg, or run off to find a girlfriend if properly trained like any other dog--especially if you never breed them and you get them neutered before a year of age.

I used to have just females growing up and therefore preferred them. When I started breeding, I found that I was more drawn to the males. Everyone has their own opinion and personal preference. The most important thing to think about when buying a dog as a pet is not what gender you choose, but rather buying from a good breeder, getting a pup whose parents have great personalities & temperaments, and getting a pup who's individual personality meets your individual needs.

 

6) Q: Are your dogs bred for beauty of brains?

A: BOTH!!! If you've spent some time researching various breeders, you may have noticed that some breeders show their dogs a lot, while some other breeders concentrate on hunting or another aspect of training such as obedience or agility. There's nothing wrong with showing, field work, or any other form of dog training, however sometimes when breeders concentrate too much on just one aspect of a breed such as show or field, etc. they overlook other equally important aspects of the breed and then loose some of the wonderful qualities Goldens and Labs were bred for. For example, you may have seen some beautiful show dogs that weren't very intelligent. Likewise, you may have seen some hunting dogs that maybe didn't have the best conformation. This, unfortunately, is not uncommon.

As a good breeder, it can be very difficult to breed the "ideal" dog that meets the AKC's breed standard in nearly every way, but that should be every good breeder's goal--at least if they are to keep to the guidelines of the the AKC or the breed club most good breeders belong to. The reason my dogs have beauty AND brains, the perfect combination of good looks, intelligence, & trainability, is because I am very careful when selecting my breeding dogs to choose those that possess both qualities. I choose the most versatile pups from my litters to keep as my own breeding prospects. I enter them in conformation shows, hunt tests, and obedience trials. That's why my dogs have all the wonderful characteristics that make them true to their breed in conformation & personality.

 

7) Q: What are the most common health issues to look for in these breeds and what problems have you encountered with your dogs/pups?

A: Common Health Concerns:

Join conditions such as Hip Dysplasia, Elbow Dysplasia, and Arthritis are prevalent in large breeds. Dysplasia can be kept to a minimum with passing OFA or PennHip certifications on all breeding stock, along with maintaining proper nutrition, body weight, and physical fitness throughout the life of the dog. These join conditions, if problematic, are generally detected when the dog is still relatively young (before 3 years of age). Arthritis is another issue, but generally occurs as the dog reaches its senior years--just as with humans. Adding joint supplements to your dog's diet can significantly reduce or even eliminate these joint concerns. We use and recommend NuVet Plus. It's also important to understand that not every join problem is genetic. If a dog is limping in pain, there are many possible causes including injury, a pulled muscle, and even growing pains. The only way to determine if it's hip or elbow dyslpasia is to have proper xrays taken at an appropriate age by a PennHip certified veterinarian, and then have those xrays read by a board certified radiologist.

Heart conditions are not uncommon, and some can be prevented/kept to a minimum again through proper screening of breeding stock. One of the most common heart conditions, like a small murmur, is generally seen in younger puppies, but is not usually very serious. A condition such as a heart murmur generally disappears with age, but should still be monitored. If a heart condition is suspected by your regular vet, the next step would generally be to have the dog seen by a board certified cardiologist for accurate diagnosis and possible forms of treatment.

Eye conditions can also occur in these breeds. Again, proper certification of the parents, through CERF, can help minimize the incidence of major problems such as genetic blindness. Other conditions include retinal dysplasia, which can lead to full or partial loss of vision. For accurate diagnosis of an eye problem, a dog would need to be seen by a board certified ophthalmologist.

Dry skin/coat, excessive shedding, hot spots, & allergies are not uncommon either. The very best way to prevent this, as always, is to make sure the parents are free from any problematic conditions, and of course feed a high-quality food appropriate for the size and age of your dog, and supplement with added nutrients if you choose. Again, I recommend NuVet Plus k-9 supplements to keep the skin and coat is optimum condition There really isn't a genetic test to check for potential skin & coat issues, or allergies, however breeding stock should be free of such issues.

Thyroidism is another concern for Goldens & Labs. We can test our breeding stock for this, but as with any other health condition, there is always some level of risk that a puppy could end up with an issue, even when both parents test negative. In some cases, it may not even be hereditary at all. Fortunately, this problem is easily treated, and does not have to become too serious. Many dogs with thyroidism lead normal, healthy lives if properly medicated. Signs of thyroid problems in adults can include weight gain or hair loss, and signs of thyroid problems in young pups may include improper growth, fatigue, and general appearance of poor health. If you or your vet suspect a thyroid problem, finding the answer is as easy as a simple blood test, and if diagnosed, treatment involves taking a tiny, relatively inexpensive pill twice a day.

Epilepsy is also an issue with these dogs. In most cases, it can be very difficult to determine the cause, but can usually be controlled with medication. Seizures can be caused by a number of reasons. It could be an allergic reaction, exposure to poison such as weed killer or lawn fertilizer, stress induced, dehydration, or any number of other causes. When it happens repeatedly over time, it's diagnosed as Epilepsy. When a seizure turns out to be an isolated incident, it's usually chalked up to an environmental cause.

Cancer is a health problem known to nearly every living animal. Sometimes environmental, sometimes hereditary, and most of the time "cause unknown." The best way to protect against cancer, is to buy pup from a long line of longevity with minimal cases of cancer (especially those diagnosed prior to 8 years of age), and to keep your pet in a clean environment, away from common toxins in the water, the air, or even in your home. Most cases of cancer are found in older dogs, but are sometimes seen in younger dogs as well. There is no genetic test to check for the predisposition of cancer, so our best efforts remain in taken great care to only breed dogs with a good health history. It is important to understand however, that no line of dogs is completely free of cancer. In any dog you obtain, there will always be some level of risk.

 

Our Own Personal Experience:

On occasion, we have received reports of a heart murmur in a young pup, and is most cases the murmur went away on it's own as the pup got older, as they generally do. The fact is, I was born with a murmur as well, and as I grew the murmur just went away. All heart murmurs should be monitored regularly. Most will go away with age, while others may not. Of those that don't go away, some will become less severe over time, others will stay the same and not be too serious, while a few can be life-threatening.

Once in a while, we have a pup with a food or environmental allergy, or just dry skin. This is generally remedied with a change of the dog's diet in the case of a food allergy, or with seasonal allergy medication for outdoor sources like pollen and ragweed.

We have also had a few pups who were diagnosed with a thyroid problem. Once treated by a veterinarian with relatively inexpensive medication prescribed, the pups continued to adulthood and lead a very normal life.

We have been very fortunate as far as joint issues go as well. We have had an issue pop up here and there over the last 10 years, but it should be noted that we've only had genetic joint issues reported to us in fewer than 1% of the pups we've produced. While it is unavoidable, and does happen, it's been rare in our experience-which is an much as any breeder could hope for.

 

A Final Note:

I do screen all my dogs for common health issues found in these breeds, such as hip, elbow, eye, and heart problems, and only breed the strongest, healthiest dogs I can--free from any known serious hereditary health issues. In my ten years breeding Goldens & Labs, I am pleased to have an excellent track record. This isn't to say none of my pups have ever had a health issue or concern, just that the rate of pups produced who are extremely healthy is very high. It is important to understand, however, that no breeder, no matter how many clearances they do, can ever breed a genetically clean dog. Meaning, as living creatures, they are all susceptible to potential health issues, big & small. In life, there are no guarantees, however, as a breeder I have chosen to offer a genetic guarantee to protect buyers from common health issues like hip & elbow dysplasia, and life-altering eye & heart problems. I do this because I have gone to great lengths to prevent these issues in my dogs, yet I know that even in doing everything I can, there's always a chance that a pup will develop a problem despite my best efforts. Therefor, if your pup does develop life-altering hip dysplasia, or goes blind from retinal dysplasia, etc, you will be entitled to a refund to help cover the costs of vet bills.

It's important to understand that any breeder who stays in the hobby of breeding dogs long enough will encounter health issues. It's only a matter of time. The important thing to keep in mind, however, is how often & how severe these incidents are. Any good breeder will be honest with you, and be happy to answer all your questions and address all your concerns. They will also make the hard decision to spay/neuter and place a dog who continuously produces problematic pups. As someone researching various breeders in preparing to purchase a pup, you may not always have a way of knowing how healthy a breeder's line really is, so you must find someone you trust. If you don't feel right, walk away. And if is seems like the breeder is pushing you, they're probably looking for a sale, and not really interested in the pup's long term care as their number one priority. As a breeder, I feel a need to feel comfortable with the homes I choose to send my pups to, therefor I can understand a buyer also needing to feel comfortable with the breeder they choose to receive a puppy from. It's a relationship best built on mutual respect and appreciation.

 

8) Q: Why should I care about a dog's pedigree if I just want a good family pet and don't intend to show, hunt, or breed my dog?

A: A good pedigree isn't everything, but it is a very good place to start when you want to learn something about a dog or it's line. Even if all you want is a good family pet, you still want a healthy dog, a beautiful dog, and a smart, trainable dog right? And you probably also want to know that the pup was well bred and did not come from an uneducated breeder or a puppy mill right?

Well, a pedigree can tell you a lot about a dog. For example, an AKC certified pedigree will show you the health clearances, if any, of each dog in your pup's family tree. You will be able to see if the parents, grandparents, and great grandparents were tested for their hips, elbows, eyes, etc. This is extremely important if you want a healthy dog.

You can also see if any of your dog's parents, grandparents, or great grandparents earned any titles. Again, if you don't want to show, hunt, or breed your dog you may wonder why this is important, however when there are a lot of champion show dogs in your dog's pedigree you can see that your pup comes from a long line of beautiful dogs with correct conformation. It also means that you have a reasonable expectation of how tall and heavy your pup will grow to be since champions must meet the AKC's breed standard in size and weight, so you can be assured that your pup will not grow to be twice the size it's supposed to. For example, many Goldens today come from back yard breeders and puppy mills and average size is now somewhere around 90 to 110 lbs without being overweight, however the AKC's breed standard for a Golden Retriever is actually just around 65 -70 lbs--much smaller than poorly bred Goldens.

Also, if your dog has a lot of field titles in his or her pedigree this shows that your pup will most likely have a fondness for swimming and retrieving; which is nice if you ever plan to play ball or take the dog to a lake to enjoy the water. Despite their reputation as water dogs, not all Goldens or Labs love the water. In fact, some show dogs today have lost that fondness because it was inadvertently bred out of them when their breeders concentrated too much on conformation and too little on field work or retrieving ability.

A CD or CDX title in your dog's pedigree means that dog earned a title in obedience, meaning it's a smart, eager-to-please dog, and that is capable of learning commands and pleasing it's owner.

If your dog doesn't have any titles in his or her pedigree, how do you know how he or she will turn out? Will she weigh 65 lbs or 105 lbs? Will she be pretty or smart? Just because she's a Golden or a Lab, and just because she's AKC registered does not guarantee any of those things. It only means her parents were purebred. Also, if your dog's pedigree only has titles on one area, such as all show dogs and no hunting or obedience titles, then it may be pretty, but also pretty dumb and maybe even hard to train. Visa versa, if you dog has a lot of field or obedience titles and no show dog titles, it may be smart, enthusiastic, and playful but look like something that crawled out of who knows where. It may even have health problems steaming from the fact that it's body is improperly proportioned or caring too much weight for its breed.

If you are looking for a dog with certain expectations in mind as to how the dog will look, how big it will get, if it will be healthy, and if it will be smart and trainable, carefully examining its pedigree is very, very important.

One last thing to consider is, a well bred, beautiful, smart, & trainable dog will come from breeders who spend the time and money to put titles on them and prove their dogs beauty, intelligence, and performance ability. If a dog has little to no titles in his or her pedigree and little to no health certifications, it either came from a puppy mill or an uneducated back yard breeder and will probably not meet many of your expectations regarding that breed. It's also important to understand that a well bred, well rounded, healthy dog--even just as a pet--will cost a lot of money. Only expect to pay less than $800 or so for a poorly bred dog, because a good breeder's pet puppies sold on limited AKC registration with a spay/neuter contract will still cost a significant amount of money due to all the time and money the breeder has put into their dogs while simply doing their best to breed a dog they can be proud of. If you don't believe in spending much on a dog that is "just a pet" or you simply don't feel you can afford it, that's your decision, just don't expect the same quality. I believe you get what you pay for. Please see: our Puppy Pricing page for more info regarding the price of puppies.

 

 

 

Section Two:

AKC Registration, Shipping, Payment Information, & the Puppy Visitation/Selection Process.

 

 

9) Q: What is the difference between limited registration and full registration?

A: Limited registration is AKC registration of a purebred dog who is not to be used for breeding and will not be shown in most AKC events. Limited AKC registration is given with those pups being sold as pets and will be spayed or neutered by 6 to 10 months of age.

Full registration is AKC registration with no restrictions on breeding or participation in AKC events. This type of AKC registration is given to those pups being sold to show/breeding homes. Sometimes when a breeder sells a show/breeding quality dog/pup on full AKC registration, they will do so on a co-ownership basis.

 

10) Q:What is co-ownership and how does it work?

A: Co-ownership is most often used when a breeder sells a show quality dog/pup to another breeder. The "owner" is generally the person to whom the dog is being sold, and the "co-owner" is generally the breeder of the pup. The "owner" is the one who keeps, trains, cares for the dog, and pays all the expenses involved in doing so, including the cost of showing the dog. Sometimes the co-owner will show the dog for the owner and send it back home when it completes its championship or earned its titles. Some reasons for a breeder choosing to co-own a dog they've bred and sold, rather than selling it outright, is to retain some say over the dog and maintain the right to use it as part of their breeding program. Co-ownership can be a little tricky at times, but generally works out very well, with advantages to both owner and co-owner. The specifics of co-ownership are written out in the sales contract and will vary among different breeders. Please note: Candyheart offers show/breeding quality pups on both a co-ownership or full ownership basis depending on what works best in the given situation.

 

11) Q: Do you ship your puppies?

A: We do not ship our pet pups. We simply don't feel that it is necessary to put them through the stress of flying at such an early age, plus we have no trouble finding good homes for all our pups within a reasonable driving distance. We may consider shipping, however, when placing pups to show/performance homes throughout the country. Though whenever possible, we always prefer pick up in person.

In the rare event that we have decided to ship a dog or pup, the costs starts at $300 and varies by the size and weight of the dog. The shipping cost includes the flight ticket, a health certificate, and an airline approved shipping crate, in addition to a small fee for transporting the dog to the airport.

 

12) Q: How much do your puppies cost, and when is payment accepted?

A: Our prices generally range from $800 to $1,500 for pups sold as pets on limited AKC registration with a spay/neuter contract, and from $1,200 to $2,000 for pups placed as show/breeding prospects. Older pups and available adults may cost significantly more or less depending on their age and training level, among other things. Our prices do not vary based on color or gender. Prices vary only from litter to litter and are determined based on the quality of that litter; for example what has been put into their line such as expenses for health certifications, dog shows, titles, training, etc. Please call or send an email for detailed litter information and the specific prices on the various litters. Deposits of $200 are accepted once a litter is born, and the balance is due one week prior to puppy selection/take home day.

 

13) Q: When and where should I send my deposit, and is it refundable if I change my mind?

A: In order to reserve a pup or an available older dog that is for adoption, a $200 deposit is required. If you've been on our waiting list and we've contacted you to let you know that we have a pup available from a particular litter, you will have 10 days from the time the litter is born to get your deposit to us. If we have not received your deposit after two weeks, and you haven't been in contact requesting an extension, we will notify others that a pup has become available. We do not accept deposits on pups until after they are born. This avoids having to refund a deposit in the event that we do not end up having a pup available for you.

If you have been in contact with us and have been approved for a puppy we currently have available, please please send a check made out to either Freya Grover or Candyheart Retrievers to the address located at the top of the puppy application you filled out prior to acceptance on our waiting list.

Deposits are always fully refundable, should you change your mind for any reason. We do prefer, however, that you are serious about buying a Candyheart puppy before sending a deposit, and that you're not just sending them out to numerous breeders to hold your spot until you've made a decision. If, for any reason, you would like your deposit refunded, please allow up to 6 - 8 weeks for re-embursement. Many times we can give a full or partial refund right away, however, sometimes we must wait until more money comes in before we have enough cash available to give a refund.

 

14) Q: What forms of payment do you accept?

A: We do not regard the placing of our pups as a business nor do we sell our pups sight unseen over the internet, therefore, we are not set up to accept Paypal, credit, or debit cards. We only accept payment in the form of cash, when being paid at the time of pick-up, or in the form of a check or money order when paid in advance. Also, please note that the balance for pups is generally due one week before the pups are selected & taken home so you payment must arrive on time. And if, for any reason, on the day of puppy selection, you are not satisfied with the selection of pups available to you, the purchase price is 100% refundable. We will never force someone to either lose payment on a pup they don't want, or to take a pup home that they are not comfortable with. Again, as mentioned above in the answer to question 13; in the event of a refund, please allow up to 6 - 8 weeks for re-embursement. Many times we can give a full or partial refund right away, however sometimes we must wait until more money comes in before we have enough cash available to give a refund.

 

15) Q: Once the pups are born, how soon can we come see them and pick one out?

A: Visits to see a new litter of pups are limited until they are old enough for visitors and ready to be selected. There are a number of reasons we feel this is best for everyone listed as follows:

1. First, it simply is not a good idea to introduce new people into the household before the pups have received their first set of vaccinations. Even though you may not see a problem with it, the fact is that life threatening bacteria and viruses can be carried in on your shoes and clothes without you even knowing it. Anytime you set foot in a public place, you take the risk of picking up a host of germs on the bottom of your shoes, that even though they would not harm most animals, could be quite serious for a very young pup who has not yet received vaccines to protect him against these common illnesses. While most of the time, it's not an issue because these incidences are rare, it just takes one person coming into contact with the wrong bacteria at the wrong time to wipe out an entire litter. You may have heard horror stories of similar things happening to other breeders. We have, and once we even lost a litter of our own this way. When it comes right down to it, brining new people into our home to see the pups at such as early age is just not worth the risk.

2. Second, while we strive to properly socialize our puppies in our home by daily interactions, stimulating them with new sights, sounds, and experiences before leaving us at around 8 to 10 weeks , we do not want to stress them out at such a young age with over-stimulation. Pups, just as children, go through various emotional developmental stages, including fear periods. Which is why it's important for us to avoid overwhelming them with too much excitement during these times with frequent visits from hopeful families.

3. Third, there is little point is visiting a litter of pups prior to their being ready to be chosen. When they are very young, they simply eat and sleep a lot and don't even start playing until they are a few weeks old. Because the pups personalities are just starting to develop at these early stages, they are still changing a lot from one week to the next. The pup you think you want one week could be very different another week. The determining factors by which pups should be chosen are most evident around 8 to 10 weeks of age.

4. And finally, we believe it would be an unfair advantage for someone to have priority in getting to see the pups before anyone else. To be fair, everyone will get to meet and play with the pups at the same time--on a designated puppy selection/take home day that is determined when the litter is born.

For the reasons mentioned above, pups will not be available to be visited before puppy selection/take home day. We appreciate your understanding and cooperation, and to compensate for the lack of one-on-one visits during the first few weeks, we will keep you updated with new photos of the pups as they grow. That way you can still see them change and develop right here on our website.

 

16) Q: Can I send a small blanket or article of clothing to you before we take our new puppy home so he will have the familiar smell of his littermates when he leaves them?

A: Yes, many people like to do this for the benefit of the puppy the first few nights in its new home. Since almost everything its relatively new world is already changing, it can be comforting to the pup to at least have a familiar smell to fall asleep with. I only ask that the item is clean, and that it is labeled with your name.

 

18) Q: Do you choose our pup for us, or do we get to pick out our own puppy?

A: Pups will be selected BY YOU along with MY ADVICE. Since I spend a lot of time observing these pups and getting to know each of them as they grow, and I am best able to help guide you in your decision as to which pup will be the best match for your family, as well as to which family will be the best match for each of my pups given everybody's individual needs--including the pups themselves.

I simply do not believe in picking out pups by the arbitrary "first come, first serve" method, as they are living creatures, not some product off a shelf. Puppies are as individual as the people who take them home, and are to be picked out by keeping in mind the characteristics each family is looking for in their new pup, as well as matching the activity level and personality of each pup to the activity level and lifestyle of each family. That is the best way to ensure that everyone takes home a pup that will fit into their family well, and everyone will go home happy--even the pups.

When people arrive on the designated "puppy selection/take home day," I will hand out puppy/family matchmaker forms for each family to fill out which has a number of questions that will help me better understand each families individual wants and needs regarding their new puppy. After observing and playing with the pups for a little while, each family will be asked to list their first three choices of pups on the form. If two or more families end up having the same pup as their 1st choice (which, believe it or not, is very rare), we will then go to the waiting list to determine who gets to make first pick--assuming that the pup would fit well into any of those families. I will never send a pup home with a family that I do not believe it would fit into well. As I mentioned before, each pup has its own personality and individual needs. Some need more time & social interaction than others, and some are better suited to spend hours alone while its family is at work during the day. At the same time, some pups are better suited to have another dog in the home for companionship while other pups are happier as the only dog in the household. Some are calmer and more patient around young children, while others might play to rough with the smaller kids.

Most of the time, since everyone has a slightly different idea in mind of the type of pup they want, we don't have a problem with a lot of people all wanting the same puppy. In the past, I believe that everyone has ended up happy with the pup they have taken home. We've never had anyone return a pup or fail to take one home because it wasn't the one they wanted. Only once, so far, did two families desperately want the same pup. As it turned out, one family decided to accept second pick and later decided they were very pleased and happy with that puppy afterall.

Since one of my main goals as a breeder is to produce pups with good temperaments and personalities, we simply don't have pups with bad temperaments or problems with severe aggression or timidness. While each pup has its own individual personality, they generally all make happy, healthy, and well-rounded family pets when proper training and socialization is continued at home with their new family.

If, for any reason, someone does not want any of the pups available to them, the purchase price is always 100% refundable. Everyone will get a pup they want to keep, or their money back!

Special Note: Pups placed in show or breeding homes are given priority over pet pups simply due to the fact that those pups must meet the strict requirements of a potential show or breeding prospect in terms of both conformation and temperament. Not every pup in a litter can turn out to be a champion or good breeding prospect--on the contrary, often times there are only a select few pups or even just a single pup who makes the cut. Therefore, only after show/breeding pups have been chosen, will the remaining pups be available to be selected for pet homes. Priority also applies to pups being selected as potential hunting dogs or therapy dogs, as not every pup in a litter will be the best candidate for these activities. Your understanding is greatly appreciated.

 

18) Q: If we are unable to take our pup home around the pick up date, will you hold it for a week or two until we are available?

A: Many times, I don't have a problem holding a pup for a few extra weeks after the original pick up date if that is the best time for you. There is no sense in buying a pup and immediately sending it to a boarding kennel or pet sitter before going home with you. There is, however, a charge of $50/per week to hold a pup after the designated pick up date, plus any vet fees incurred during that time. (For example: the pup may be due for its second set of shots before you are able to take it home.) The holding fee is due when you pick your pup up to take him home. The balance of the pup, however, is still due one week prior to the designated take home day.

If in not being able to take the pup home on the designated puppy selection/take home day also means that you will not be able to attend that day for puppy selection, you will need to complete the puppy/family matchmaker form in advance and send it to us so that it arrives before selection/take home day. That way we can do our best to make sure you get a pup you will be happy with even though you are unable to attend on that day yourself.

 

19) Q: What is the best way to transport my new puppy in the car on the ride home?

A: If you have someone with you, it is nice to have them hold the puppy on their lap and comfort it for the ride home. If you will be traveling alone, you will need a crate to keep him safe while you are driving.

 

 

 

Section Three:

Puppy Proofing your Home, Shopping List, Feeding Questions, Spay/Neuter Recommendations & Microchipping.

 

 

For helpful information on puppy proofing your home click here.

 

20) Q: Can you provide a list of things I will need to buy in preparing to bring home my new puppy?

Ear cleaner

Dog nail clipper

Puppy shampoo

Adjustable collar (Nylon or leather)

Chain training collar

Food / Water Bowls (Stainless steel)

Food (Purina One Large Breed Puppy Formula)

Leash (I recommend a regular nylon or leather lead about 3 to 4 feet in length)

Full size crate with divider panel (For "Large Breed," or dog up to "75-80 pounds")

Bitter Apple or Bitter End spray (Chewing deterrent to protect your furniture, house plants, shoes, etc from your dog.)

Vitamin Supplements (NuVet Plus [Not found in stores. Must order by phone {1 (800) 474-7044} or on line {www.NuVet.com}, using order code: 54545. These will aid in the proper digestion of your dog's food for optimum absorption and will provide added nutrients for exceptional internal and external health, from your dogs skin and coat, to his teeth and bones.)

Toys (Various textures and purposes; one or two soft toys for snuggling, something with a squeaky for play--only during supervision, a few strong ones made of durable rubber for chewing and bouncing, and a few hard toys like real beef bones for hours of flavorful chewing.)

 

21) Q: What kind of dog food do you recommend?

A: In the puppy packet you will be given when you take your new pup home, there will be a sample bag of Purina One Large Breed Puppy dry food, as well as a sample of NuVet Plus, a daily canine nutritional supplement that aids in the proper digestion and absorption of vitamins and minerals. NuVet Plus also supplements your dog with nutrients that will keep his bones and joints strong and healthy. I give NuVet Plus to all my dogs, and strongly recommend it to all my new puppy owners. It can help prevent many common health ailments such as excessive shedding, hot spots, allergies, arthritis, cataracts, digestive problems, heart problems, and even tumors. Other brands of dog food I suggest if you do not plan to stick with Purina One include Iams, Eukanuba, Pro Plan, and Pedigree. The key in choosing a quality dog food is the ingredients. The best foods will be made with real meat and rice as the number one ingredients and not "meat by products" or "corn meal."

Just be sure that if you do change the brand of food you feed your dog, that you make the change gradual by mixing the new brand with old brand for a few weeks. This way your pup will be less likely to experience an upset stomach or runny stools due to the change in diet.

 

22) Q: How many times a day should I feed my new puppy, and how much should I give him?

A: Puppies under 6 months of age should be fed two to three times a day. Most dog food bags will provide a chart that shows how much food to offer, given the age and type (large breed, toy, etc.) of dog. I like to start by giving a 7 to 8 week old pup three to four cups of puppy food a day broken down into 1 1/2 to 2 cups twice a day or 1 to 1 1/3 cups three times a day. If the dog gets fat, fed him less. If he gets thin, feed him a little more until you find the right balance. It is also important to remember that the amount you feed him will change as he grows, and he should remain on puppy food until he is a year old.

There are also certain times in a dog's life when he will eat less. These times are when he reaches maturity and his metabolism slows down, when he gets fixed and his hormones are changing, and around 4 to 5 months when he looses his baby teeth and his new adult teeth are coming in. The latter is only a temporary loss of appetite, while the first two are times when he may be likely to gain weight even if you haven't increased his portions.

 

23) Q: Is it ok to feed my puppy table scraps?

A: Feeding pets human food can be okay when done in moderation and with consideration to what kinds of foods you are giving them. Certain human foods can be bad for dogs and even make them sick. The key is to not spoil them on so much human food that they either refuse to eat their own well balanced dog food or that they become overweight.

 

24) Q: What is the best age to get my pup spayed or neutered?

A: I do not support early spay/neuter of pups under 5 months of age, except when done by shelters before adopting pets out. I do, however, like to see pups spayed or neutered before they reach sexual maturity, which generally occurs in the first year. I require all my pet pups sold on limited registration be spayed or neutered between 6 to 10 months of age with the guidance of their vet as to the best time. Many vets like to see their patents fixed around 6 months, while others prefer to wait until 10 months.

 

25) Q: Do you recommend microchipping?

A: Yes, microchipping is a great way to permanently identify your dog. It insures that if your dog is ever lost or stolen, it can be traced back to you and returned. Implanting the chip takes just a second and does not hurt the dog. In fact, the chip itself is no bigger than a grain of rice, and is implanted between the shoulder blades just behind the neck. It generally costs around $40 to chip your dog, and you can have it done at your vet's office during a routine appointment.

 

 

 

Section Four:

Trial Period & Health Guarantees/Returns & Refunds.

 

26) Q: Do you offer a trial period in which we can return the pup for a full refund if we should change our mind once we get him/her home?

A: Yes, absolutely. I try very hard to make sure that each family gets a puppy they will be happy with. If, for any reason, you decide that the pup you bought just isn't a good fit for you and your family (Maybe the timing is bad, a family member has pet allergies, or maybe you just realized you just got in over your head and are really not ready for the responsibility of puppy afterall.) you will have two weeks in which to make that decision and return the pup to receive a full refund of the purchase price as long as the pup is in similar health and condition as when you took it home. If this is the case, an agreed upon day and time that is suitable to both sides will be set a minimum of 24 to 48 hours in advance. Pups are not to be dropped off without an appointment.

We also provide everyone with a 48 hour health guarantee that states if you take your pup to a vet within 48 hours from picking it up and the vet deems the puppy to be in poor health, you are entitled to a full refund of the purchase price for the return of the puppy. We cannot guarantee a pup after the 48 hour period because enough time has then passed since it left here that it may very well have contracted an illness after leaving us, and therefor we are not to be held responsible. We will only pay vet bills related to an illness or condition existing at time of sale. If the condition of a pup reported to be in poor health is in question, a second opinion may be required for conformation.

In the event a pup is returned within the trial period, please allow 6 to 8 weeks to receive a refund. Sometimes we are able to give a full or partial refund right away, however other times we must wait until more money comes in before we have enough cash available to give a refund.

In addition to the above guarantees, Candyheart is always more than willing to take a pup back anytime you are unwilling or unable to keep it, or to aid you in placing it in a new home. All the pups we bred are welcome back at any age. That's part of the commitment we make to each pup we breed.

All health guarantees, as well as the initial trial period, are included in writing in the sales contract.

 

27) Q: Have you ever had anyone return a pup for a serious health related reason like hip dysplasia, genetic blindness, heart disease, or other common joint, eye, or heart related problems?

A: No, fortunately I have been very lucky so far in that my dogs lines are very strong. However, every breeder, no matter how hard we try to decrease the incidence of these health problems by genetic testing, will unfortunately have to go through this at some time since large breed dogs like Goldens and Labs are prone to these common health issues.

Even though according to the OFA's (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) database close to 1 in 5 Goldens and nearly 1 in 8 Labs tested for hip dysplasia in the United States tests positive, the good news is that the majority of the affected dogs are only mild or moderate cases showing minimal to no symptoms of joint abnormality. This means that they still make excellent, fully functional pets and generally don't even require pain medication or joint supplementation. It is only the few cases of affected dogs that actually have severe dysplasia that are serious enough to warrant the dog to require corrective surgery or daily pain medication to control the problem.

Very rarely do I have pups returned. When a pup is returned, the most common reasons are failure of entire household to agree to getting a new pet, a family member has pet allergies, and bad timing to add a new pet to the family.

 

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